Disappointed and nearly ready to give up on Calgary’s bismal late-night lounge bar scene, my partner recalled reading about a new pizza bistro in the 17th Ave precinct. Una Pizza + Wine stays open till late and was only a short walk for us from this night’s not-so-classy Stampede crowd near 4th Street. Una opened its kitchen early last year in the remodeled space of an old local pizza favorite, Wicked Wedge. Their focus geared toward high-end late-night food had not gone unnoticed with exciting reviews appearing in all of Calgary’s feature magazines and still fresh after a year and a half of operation.
Determined to quickly swing by and “just have a look”, we are greeted by the buzzing excitement of a more sophisticated and civilized crowd seeking their after-bar snack at Una. The space is bright with intriguing seating arrangements and a genuinely well put together feel. Immediately it is easy to recognize the relaxed atmosphere of like minded people enjoying good times with friends at this stylish lounge.
We are seated at the bar, amidst the activity and the thin threshold between service and serviced. Here you get close, very close to the action. The staff work quickly and professionally, dousing an equal amount of attention over their eager customers. The first impressive aspect is the switch to trademark Q Water, an in-house highly filtered water product which tastes clean and crisp and comes pouring endlessly for just $2 dollars a head. No plastic, no problem. There is even a Q Water beer-style tap behind the bar, still or sparkling.
The bar chairs are comfortable and allow great spacial placement among the chic decor and finely tuned lighting, the attention to detail in their interior is impeccable yet not stiff. My partner finds a very clever hidden away hook system located below the bar for hanging bags, this says something. The music is well chosen and plays through an iPad, a clever simple nod to modern gadgetry. Likewise, they provide free wifi and feed the table wait times through their twitter posts.
We came in for a nice glass of wine. Their wine list is sufficient and very well researched, here you will find viticulture maturity in their selections: Sauvignon Blanc from Malbourough and Pinot Noir from Martinborough, Shiraz from McLaren Vale and GSM from Barossa, Chardonnay from California and Gewurtz from BC; these people are clearly winos. But reading through the menu, we disregard having already eaten earlier in the evening and begin to salivate at the options before us.
We choose Shiraz from McLaren, maintaining a firm preference for big bold Aussie reds, knowing we will probably sample at least a starter. Here the standouts are the veal and pork meatballs, the seared scallops wrapped in prosciutto, the roasted fingerling potatoes, and the tasting of serrano ham. Before making our choice we are urged by our neighbours to try a pizza instead, their specialty, so we choose the roasted cremini mushroom pizza, with scamorza + grana padano cheese, fresh arugula and truffle oil. These guys are not shy with their arugula, it’s evident in most of the dishes you find when scanning the room. Good thing too since I love fresh rocket leaves.
The mushroom pizza is excellent. The base is crisp and bready, and deliberately not served with the customary tomato base. The tastes are threefold, the pepery arugula, the creamy yet spiky cheese, and the earthy smoky flavor of the cremini mushrooms highlighted by the truffle oil. The wine, well, how do you think they paired? Bellissimo!
We ate well past midnight and stayed well past one in the morning, activity still brewing but early signs of close starting to show around that time. Another group of people close by ordered the tasting of serrano ham, I couldn’t resist so I asked the skillful barman for a small taste and he joyfully obliged. It was divine, soft and smokey, almost like Proscioutto San Daniela. He possessed the good judgement and business maturity not to charge for the single slice, even though we would have happily paid for the pleasure.
Una Pizza + Wine have it down pat, the right product for the right market. They excel in delivering it in a stylish and contemporary way. It’s all the old good stuff but in a new good way, they speak the language of today’s more involved and better informed consumer. Needless to say our night got better, and satisfaction was now easily reached. It is rare when a small entrepreneurial venture can change the way you feel about an entire city. Una does this and paves the way for a new era in late night fine dining for Calgary, the only disappointment is that there aren’t more places like it...but time will change that thanks to people like this.